à TABLE | ARTICLE 2

Wine and food:
the perfect pairing?

31.50.2023
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Eric Beaumard, chef sommelier at Georges V, Paris for more than 20 years and crowned with multiple accolades, shares his thoughts on the links that ally wine and gastronomy, in an interview seasoned with his trademark lively passion.

When we talk about gastronomy, the concept of pairing food and wine seems essential. Where do you think this partnership comes from?

I believe wine is part of civilisation, and French culture most of all. As far as food and wine is concerned, this is a match etched in the stars. It’s pure hedonism: wine enhances and elevates food. Culinary techniques are all about balancing flavours, which reach even greater heights by adding wine in the equation. When consumed in moderation, wine adds to the enjoyment of appreciating food and enhances the experience. Not wanting to be too dogmatic, but really good red wine, especially from Bordeaux, goes perfectly well with dishes with depth and packed with flavour, which water would tend to neutralise or dilute.

"It’s pure hedonism: wine enhances and elevates food."

What are we looking for when pairing a gastronomic meal with fine wine?

Pleasure first of all – it’s as simple as that! If it’s enjoyable, it instils emotion. It’s all highly subjective, as there are so many different parameters with tasting. Preparing food delivers incredible taste and texture sensations, which are enhanced further when paired with wine, for a really meaningful experience. Importantly, excess has no place in enjoyment; it’s important to know your limits and focus on quality rather than quantity.

What would you advise to select first when creating a pairing, the wine or the dish?

Ideally, I would say it’s better to come up with a dish with the wine as a starting point; it’s more fun, and this is what I enjoy when I can. But this is much easier at home than in a restaurant. In a restaurant setting, the sommelier will always suggest several wines based on your food order. A few discreet questions about what your preferences and price range, and he will come up with a few suggestions and pointers to choose a suitable wine, yet never overstepping the mark with opinions, as ultimately taste is highly personal and the possibilities are endless.

Are there any particular food and wine pairing rules or do you just follow your instincts?

Anything goes! It’s all about trial and error. It doesn’t always work brilliantly, but it’s best to keep an open mind. Taste is hugely personal, and quite intimate; it depends on training, the senses, and that particular moment in time. You can even suddenly go off something you previously really liked.

What really counts is approaching wine with an open mind, and expanding your horizons. It’s so easy to be swayed by others, but if you feel comfortable, don’t shy away from trying something new.

How do you prevent getting it wrong? Are there any matches to avoid?

There are no major faux pas, and remaining open to new ideas is key. But that said, some pairings work better than others. It’s all about the physiology of taste, according to Brillat-Savarin in the early 19th century, and we know that certain matches are risky, impossible even. So for example milk proteins and tannins just don’t work together, in the same way as the liquid texture of a broth or anything bitter.
But once again, you really need to think outside the box, as much depends on how the ingredients are prepared. A purple artichoke prepared with love and care can be utterly exquisite with a red wine – never say no and trust the chef!

And also, it’s important to consider the character of the wines; you can’t compare the power of a 2010 or 2015 vintage with the elegance of a 2012, which is why some pairings work better than others.

We sometimes criticise professionals for their use of technical terms, which can be quite intimidating – would you agree?

Professionals tend to use jargon, it’s true; either to show off or in their enthusiasm to share their knowledge.
But it’s a step too far. Sommeliers now realise that their customers often want a story, and it’s a huge source of pride to be able to share this knowledge. And also taste is an acquired skill; some wine enthusiasts are extremely good at tasting and have a very good palate; we shouldn’t be afraid of learning.

What top tips could you share to break with the traditional rules of food and wine pairing?

I would say do your own thing and select a wine that is individual, unusual or different. Something along the lines of so-called ‘exotic’ wines, such as an orange wine or fortified wine like sherry. There are some remarkable, surprising alliances. There are also some exceptional pairings with mature champagne.
In Bordeaux we tend to be quite traditional, red wines often need more elaborate dishes. And yet we can still create something really special with premium red wines partnered with vegetables – it’s fascinating. Pairing with sweet food can be a challenge, but if we truly understand the food and wine, we can create really great matches.

What is your best tasting memory?

I have so many, which together form a long line of great moments. I remember a 1910 Chartreuse which I drank with the monks, a jeroboam of Charles Heidsieck 1989, a 1929 Krug, and a Cliquot 1959. But the memory that really lingers is a dinner with my father and father-in-law in 1990, accompanied by a bottle of Romanée Conti 1969. Everything was perfect and I remember it as if it were yesterday.

"Ultimately, when you match grand cru wines and gastronomy, everything has its place and all comes together to create a truly memorable experience: the wine, food, the setting, the company and mood."

And the best meal you ever had?

That’s easy, spaghetti and truffle timbale by Christian le Squer with a bottle of Ermitage Cathelin 1995, Domaine Jean-Louis Chave. It was a sublime match.

I also had an amazing potato dish by Michel Guérard at a dinner during Vinexpo. Made with smoked herring and caviar and served with a magnum of 2012 Haut Brion white – it was exceptional – mind-blowing even! In both cases, the dishes seem quite simple, but are prepared so brilliantly, and served with really great wines.

Ultimately, when you match grand cru wines and gastronomy, everything has its place and all comes together to create a truly memorable experience: the wine, food, the setting, the company and mood. It’s all part of the enjoyment and emotion.